I went on a very special journey to Oaxaca to take some of Jean-Pierre’s ashes to Monte Alban and to buy for the store. I wanted to tell you about the great love and friendship of the artists who helped me every step of the way, making it all possible. Armando and Antonia Jimenez (and sometimes their children Alejandro and Anali) picked me up at the airport and drove me everywhere that I needed to go and stayed with me while I was buying, devoting an entire week to helping me in every way, even though they had very busy schedules. Victor Davila of La Teresita helped me with shopping also, saving me a trip to La Union and handling all of my shipping, as he has for years. Angelico Jimenez and Zeny, Reyna and Fatima Fuentes also came with us to Monte Alban on the morning of the Spring equinox, and together all of us shared the most beautiful moments and beauty there. Many other artists greeted me with such love and kindness, speaking of their memories of Jean-Pierre, and all were a great solace to me. Everyone graciously put up with my sad spanish and somehow we got by. No one who has ever been to Oaxaca could or would dispute the beauty and magic of this place, or the talent, generosity, heart and soul of its’ people, yet what was given to me on this occasion far surpasses even that. The land and the artists restored me with their love and warmth and beauty, and even though I came back to a cold, snow-covered morning in Pittsburgh: en mi corazon, es la Primavera (in my heart, there is Spring). * There are 47 photos in the slide show that follows and three videos after that, so be sure to scroll! *
¡Hello, Friends! We had another fruitful shopping expedition in September and wanted to share some photos, new things and experiences with you.
As always, we begin and end our journeys in Mexico City, and no matter how many times we have seen it, there is still nothing better than that first glimpse of the Angel of Independence after having been away for a time. She was looking especially regal that first evening of our arrival.
Nearby on the Reforma in front of the American Embassy, we saw a presentation and demonstration by the Yo Soy #132 Movement for Peace with Justice and Dignity.
The next morning we were off bright and early to Taxco in search of more silver for the holiday season. We feel the same way about the cathedral Santa Prisca as we do about the Angel: a million views and photos will never be enough to entirely take in it’s grandeur.
There were many wondrous finds to be had in sterling silver, and we did our best to find things that were not only beautiful, but also hand made, well-executed and unique. Here is an extra large fine filigree earring with turquoise that manages to retain grace and style without being too overbearing:
Two turquoise dolphins grace this elegant choker:
And here is a whimsical sheep clothed in cultured freshwater pearls that can do double duty as either a pin or a pendant.
It was also the time and place to find more of our favorite silly, black and white muerto-themed ceramic cranios, boxes and other small items, and we weren’t disappointed. We have enough cavorting, lovesick skeletons to please all of you!
…And there were kitties galore!
A glorious antique, giant wooden jaguar covered in milagros took us by surprise and could not be left behind…
Next we off to Metepec for some new Trees of Life. All was still decorated for Independence Day and the surroundings were delightful. A special gigantic Arbol that had been made for the Bicentennial was impressive:
Two of our finds:
A visit with our longtime friend Alejandro Sergio Hernandez, Maestro of papel picado, yielded these two highly unusual, one of a kind panels framed in tin:
Nearby, we were glad to find that our favorite purveyor of extra fancy sugar skulls with feathers and tiaras was still there and fully stocked. We hand carried some of these all the way home. :)
The next day we moved on to Queretaro for a little R&R and were delighted by the enchanting B&B, Villa del Villar. You are greeted upon entering by two canaries, singing their perfect songs:
The canaries overlook an inner courtyard, which is graced by a stately bougainvillea, that dropped its’ petals like blessings, too beautiful to step on:
Breakfast was made to order…and we were amazed to realize we had found our own little piece of heaven; we highly recommend it!
Queretaro is charming, picturesque and there are many museums to explore, but as usual, we hadn’t allowed enough time for such luxuries. Still, we can never pass by a grand cathedral without taking photos, and this one was no exception:
Another church nearby had an enchanted gateway that beckoned in the evening:
Everywhere throughout the many little plazas there were vendors of every trinket imaginable, and so of course we couldn’t help ourselves. This Otomi woman had wonderful things, and we did get some darling dolls, but it was her beauty and her glorious attire that compelled us to ask for a photo:
We found some of the wonderful opals that Queretaro is known for:
Every evening there is a full-fledged flag lowering ceremony outside of this government building, complete with drummers and singing of the National Anthem, and we were thrilled to witness it in all of its’ pageantry.
The next day we took a quick trip to San Miguel de Allende, and there, of course, was another grand cathedral that did not disappoint:
We witnessed a beautiful Marian procession into the church, as well:
We were pleasantly surprised to find some gorgeous Mata Ortiz ollas that did not break the bank; this one was unlike any we had seen before:
We had a quick and impromptu tour of the famous Museum of the Mask, housed within the charming Casa de la Cuesta B&B,. Heidi was thoroughly charming and accommodating, considering that we didn’t have an appointment, and we thank her for her hospitality and for sharing her extensive knowledge. This collection is astounding, a must-see for any mask collector! We will be returning when we have more time to properly appreciate it. The B&B has heavenly views, within and without. Take a look at their photo gallery, and you will see what we mean! We left reluctantly, and so it was back to Queretaro, and we left the next morning for Mexico City once again.
There was much shopping still to do, and we got right to it, from Coyoacan to San Angel and many points in between. We spent time with the Huichols, and left with these glorious gourds in beads and yarn…
and an unforgettable encounter with a little Princess:
We found some great new muerto and luchador t shirts to add to our already large selection, as well as aprons:
There were tequila glasses with everyones’ favorite, the loteria:
..and purses with loteria figures and sugar skulls, as well:
…and painted pumpkins made of copper:
…and Precolumbian jaguars, and legendary tacos, big, scary but delicious fish,
and darling tiny turtles, and so much more!
But we could go on all day….and it’s time now to begin getting ready for Dia de los Muertos! So you’ll have to come and see for yourselves! Until then… hasta la proxima vez :)
San Franciscans have two fascinating exhibits to enjoy this month; the first is “Searching for Queertopia”, a view into the culture of the Muxes of Juchitan at Galeria de la Raza. You can also read more about it here at NPR.
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Here at the store, we also have in stock an award winning documentary on DVD by Ethnoscope films about the Muxes, for 26.95.
above: “Amanecienco” by Justina Fuentes Zárate, Guardian photo by Caitlin Donohue
The San Francisco Bay Guardian Onlines’ Caitlin Donohue describes the impetus for The Magic Surrealists of Oaxaca”, an exhibit currently on display at the SoMa Mexican consulate. The consulate is also screening “El Informe Toledo” on July 26, a documentary made by Diego Luna and Gael Garcia Bernal’s production company, based on the life of the Maestro Francisco Toledo.
Hello Friends! As we approach May 5th, we thought we’d mention that we saw a wonderful feature on Pittsburgh Today Live this morning about Cinco de Mayo with Heinz History Center CEO Andy Masich. Mr. Masich informed us that this year is the 150th Anniversary of the Battle of Puebla. A video of the entire segment is available for viewing on the Pittsburgh Today Live site right now. As some of you know, Cinco de Mayo is also the anniversary of our Murray Avenue store location and ordinarily we make a bit of a to-do about that, but Jean-Pierre is hard at work on the feature film “Promised Land”, and so we promise that next year, on our 10th anniversary, we’ll throw a proper fiesta for everyone!
In March we had the good fortune to return to our favorite shopping destinations: Mexico City, Puebla and Oaxaca. These roads always lead past the much beloved El Popo and Iztaccíhuatl. Luckily for us, a spate of eruptions from El Popo, as well as some strong earthquakes all began occurring after we were safely back home! Puebla was bustling as always and at every turn jacarandas in full bloom filled hearts with gladness:
Most of the time was spent in finding new acquisitions of Talavera, but I did manage to fit in a quick visit to our dear old friend, the Great Cathedral.
Here is a beautiful example of one of our new finds in Talavera, a unique chalice that we hope will go to a very deserving priest serving a Latino community.(sorry, it did…SOLD!)
On the first stroll down the Alcala upon arrival in Oaxaca, we were amazed to realize our good fortune at the chance to see the 2501 Migrantes exhibit by Alejandro Santiago. When standing or walking amongst the Migrantes, one felt their presence most distinctly and it was a truly beautiful and unforgettable experience. Though we already placed an album of these images on the store Facebook page, we include them some of them here: 
There were other beautiful views to be had from the balconies along Alcala, including azaleas in bloom and Tehuanas strolling:
Our next day began in Mitla, on a bright sunny morning with true blue skies and long stark shadows. 
The beauty of the mysterious temples, the bells and birdsongs of Mitla are something we will always remember…
The rest of our Mitla images are in this album on Facebook.
Remember to click on images here to view full sized. So from Mitla we proceeded to Teotitlan del Valle, where more extraordinary views awaited…
We were there for more of their famous Zapotec rugs, of course, and rugs we saw, from the sublime to the silly …
An example of dye making and spinning wheel demonstration materials:
..the finest rugs have only natural and organic origin dyes, two of the most commonly used are the recently infamous cochineal beetle and indigo. An example of one that came back with us:
From there we met up with Demetrio Garcia Aguilar, another Great Maestro and favorite of collectors from all over the world. The piece that Demetrio is holding there, called “Dualidad”, came back with us. 
We missed seeing Josefina Aguilar, who wasn’t at home at the time, but nonetheless came back with some beautiful things from her, like this Virgin of Guadalupe. (sorry, the Guadalupe has sold!) We also visited with both Guillermina and Irene, and in addition to buying more new things from them, we also asked them both to pose for new pix for us…
Below, a few more sneek peaks from other finds from San Martin and Arrazola, by Jacobo and Maria Angeles Ojeda, Armando and Antonia Jimenez and Bertha Cruz(sorry, the cat by Armando has sold!):
A darling, giant painted gourd with gatos was too irresistible to leave behind!
And so we’ll leave it at this; there is still more to report, more photos to share and more new things still arriving and and being photographed as well, so next time we’ll pick it where we left off. ¡Until then, saludos!
We want to thank everyone who particpated in and championed Muertos y Monarcas this year and to share the pix from the ofrendas with you. First, though, I had promised some a link to background info on Dia de los Muertos, and this article by Judy King is one of my favorites. All of the links in this entry lead to informative articles or videos about the individuals and all of the photos are clickable to view full sized. Keep in mind that the ofrendas are limited to remembrances of people who have died between the last Dia de los Muertos and the current one, primarily because the ofrendas become very crowded quickly.
On the left wall, we fondly remember Peter Falk, Jack LaLanne , Captain Beefheart and Dr. Billy Taylor.
Also in the window on the right side are two more Pittsburghers and friends who left us all too soon, Leo Welsh and Ryan Douthit. Beside Leos’ photo is a classic cranio with butterflies in ceramic by Tomas Baez; beside Ryans’ photo is a selection of our sterling silver muerto jewelry, a carved and painted wooden monkey calavera by Bertha Cruz Morales:
In the lower left of the window we have photographer Lazaro Blanco and his mini photographer skeleton self:
Well, when we posted a few pix from the road on the store Facebook page while in Mexico at the end of August, with the promise of more soon to come, I didn’t think it would take me this long to get around to it, but between unpacking all of the new things, creating this word press blog (still getting the hang of it!) and making plans for Dia de los Muertos, here we are in October already!
We began in Taxco, where the towers of the Santa Prisca cathedral are always a breathtaking welcome, beckoning everyone toward the zocalo…
Of course we were there for silver, and even though the prices had increased considerably since our last visit, we managed to find lots of new styles without breaking the bank. One of the latest trends is the use of a matte textured finish:
Little boxes and papel amate from Xalitla were also on the list, as always, and we were happy to find lots more of the little muerto cajitas:
We skipped Metepec and Izucar this time around, being already well stocked in Trees of Life and muertos from there:
So on we ventured onward to Puebla, where the views of El Popo and Izta make the drive magical every time.
It was a joy to see once again endless supplies of Talavera and drunken bees everywhere feasting on the candy that Puebla is so famous for…
Better still than all of that was that it was a Sunday, when the streets around all sides of the zocalo are closed to traffic. Everyone is free to wander leisurely arm in arm, buying toys, candy, tacos, listening to music, watching entertainment and generally making merry in that beautiful tradition that I have only ever witnessed in the zocalos of Mexico.
We found it no less compelling once evening fell, when the lights of the great cathedral shine brightly for all to see, and Jean-Pierre found the balloon vendors still out in full force:
The next morning we departed for nearby Tlaxcala, where we soon found we would have to venture out to nearby villages in order to find some of the things that we were in search of. The little shops around the zocalo did hold some treasures as well, though, like my perennial favorite, tiny Fortune Telling Birds!
We were also delighted by a new recycled wrapper trend, little billfold wallets:
We went in search of Tlaxcalas’ famous canes in Tizatlan, and were amply rewarded:
Also in Tizatlan is a very old church, convent and open chapel, built on top of sacred ruins, that are currently being excavated by the National Institute of Anthropology. And from this vantage point was a heavenly view of La Malinche:
And next we sought out an artist known for his papier mache, Federico Diaz Flores of Popocatla, where we picked up some crazy alebrijes:
Back in the heart of Tlaxcala, on a picturesque hilltop is the Temple and Ex Convent of San Francisco, a tranquil and magical refuge where Jean-Pierre spent may summers of his youth playing amongst the stately trees and buildings…
We returned to the zocalo once again to drink in the famous murals of the Government Palace, which had been closed for restoration when we had been there a few years previously. The artist, Desiderio Hernández Xochitiotzin, was a dear friend of Jean-Pierre’s family and one of the last great Mexican muralists.
We longed to stay to see more archeological sites, but time wouldn’t allow, and so we returned to Mexico City the next day to finish up our shopping. The Alameda was bustling for a Thursday, and we enjoyed the sight of the mounted police keeping watch:
As always, we picked up a little bit of everything: toys, glassware, nichos, Talavera, Servin stoneware, winter clothing, t-shirts, soccer jerseys, various tin items, papel picado, purses, miniatures, nativities, amate, stuffed animals, mobiles, xalitla and other ceramics, textiles and new masks of all kinds, just to name a fraction of our finds. And when we returned home, a few new spectacular pieces from Jacobo and Maria awaited us:
And so this seems as good a place as any to end this little travelogue and to tell you about this years’ Day of the Dead event, Muertos y Monarcas, which you can read about in the pdf file on the link. We’ll serve some refreshments and Oaxacan hot chocolate, burn the copal, add additional names to the ofrenda and light the candles on the Open House nights. It was another sad and difficult year with so many dead to remember, and once again we’ll be counting casualties from the wars in Iraq, Afghanistan and Mexico.
If you need items to decorate your own ofrendas, now is the time to come and get them; we have sugar skulls and just about everything you could imagine to suit your needs. Hope to see you soon!
In the courtyard of the Casa Azul
Temple of Quetzalcoatl, Teotihuacan
Iztaccihuatl + cornstalks
A Procession for the Navidad Posada in Oaxaca
El Popo
A dancer playing the part of the bull with fireworks at a calenda in Oaxaca
Santo Cristo sculpture overlooking Taxco
Cacti on the old road to Izucar
Agave field, San Martin Tilcajete, Oaxaca
scene from a street procession, Oaxaca
view from Gabino Reyes' home, La Union Tejalapan, Oaxaca
Before the rain in Tlaxcala
pigeon in nicho, Tlaxcala
